Thursday, March 14, 2013

Lunch – the guilty pleasure

It is so very, very unusual for people to dine at mid day. Especially in North America where the average person grabs a bite to eat at the coffee shop, or the food cart, while many more remain seated at their desks. Sometimes the lunch is a healthy, home prepared fare, more often than not, less so.

Most of Europe and Mexico, in fact most other continents and countries enjoy their mid day break. People dine healthier than Canadians and Americans, having a bigger lunch, and a much smaller, lighter dinner.

For many North Americans the guilt complex overrides the mid day meal. “No time, work harder, work longer”. If one is to eat well, eat after the approved working hours.

Still, with many people wanting to eat healthier, enjoy life a bit more, and many more working virtually, getting away from the nine to five work day, lunch may just become a meal to be redefined.

While the days of the three martini lunch are long gone, and a meal such as the one we experienced yesterday will still remain in the luxury category, this dining experience gave us pause. What a fantastic way to eat, an exploration of flavours, small bites, fabulous service.

A showcase for the talents of a great chef, mostly using local, seasonal products. A dining experience that will be remembered for a long time.

Deciding to combine a late lunch with a business meeting, we chose Tap Restaurant, located in Rosemary Heights, South Surrey. Upon arrival, a little after 1 pm, the restaurant was just finishing the traditional lunch hour rush.

Executive Chef Alistair Veen was on the line, and a warm greeting was given. A pleasant surprise, since I had only been to this restaurant once before, on a busy Saturday night.

This lunch meeting was with a very good friend, who is a chef, definitely a foodie, and while the goal was business, the enjoyment of food, and the company, was equally as important.

Therefore we started our lunch the way any civilized lunch should start, with a glass of bubbly. Our excellent server chose a half bottle of MOËT & CHANDON. Moët Impérial is a bright, fruity champagne. This surprise decision set the tone for what was to follow.

Chef Alistair served us an amuse bouche, his delicious lobster bisque, topped with lobster foam. A depth of flavour that hit all the taste buds. Light, rich, not the often times too creamy, too overpowered with sherry, bisque, but a just right richness obtained from a well prepared stock, and a beautifully strained product.

Which led us to inquire if Chef “wanted to play?”

This is an invitation that most chefs cannot resist. Where the guest throws away the menus, and allows the chef to prepare any dish that comes to mind. Often called the chefs table, this treat is amazing. This allows the chef to use products at hand, sometimes try new recipes, and usually serve a dish that is not on the menu. Typically this results in a memorable meal. Chef Alistair did not disappoint.

The first course was an amazing deconstructed clubhouse sandwich. Turkey, prepared sous vide, wonderfully moist. A flavourful slice of tomato. Bacon, perfectly cooked, air dried, devoid of any grease or fat, prosciutto like. A grilled button of sourdough. His house-made dressing, with a hint of spice. A drop of balsamic vinegar that had us wishing we had spoonfuls of it. The plate was pleasing to the eye, the creation had us savouring every single bite.










Next up, a perfect prawn. Seasoned with black pepper, lightly grilled. Standing beside a stacked salad.
A base of goat cheese, candied walnuts, topped with fresh spinach, brushed with a honey soy dressing, finished with a sweet strawberry. Yes, the strawberry was imported. While Chef Alistair works mainly with local products, most chefs incorporate global products and flavours in the creation of great recipes. This one called for the strawberry. (Chef shared his secret of the sweetness: Remove the strawberries from the clamshell and the fridge, allow to sit in the open air, the natural sweetness will be enhanced)



We are now defining a leisurely dining experience. Taking our time to enjoy, not only the flavours, but the presentation, the food experience.

A sip of champagne, a bite of food, interesting conversation. An hour slides by.



The empty plate is whisked away. A 2010 big, buttery, un-oaked Chardonnay is poured - Dirty Laundry Chardonnay, from the Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, with hints of apple and pear, very clean on the palate, absolutely perfect for the brie risotto that is next. The risotto is al dente, exactly to my liking. Topped with chorizo, mango and the freshest of basil, this was a perfect winter day entrée.

 


The risotto stayed warm in the deep bowl. We took our time. The flavours melded.

Complete satiated. What a lovely meal. Enjoying the last of the chardonnay, our conversation moved over many topics. The restaurant is almost empty. Three ladies a couple of tables over have also enjoy a leisurely lunch. They stop by our table as they depart. Unbeknownst to us, they have been watching the courses being served, perhaps with an envious glance. With a smile and a laugh, one says: “We want to start having lunch with you! You ladies certainly know how to “Chow Down”. This meal looked fantastic!” We took it as a compliment.

Chef came over and asked us how we were, checking on the level of fullness. Although both of us were quite happy, we could not help ourselves. Chef Allyson was too curious to see if anything else was on the radar. And, of course, one more dish was to be served.

Pillow perfect gnocchi, drenched in a lamb reduction, sautéed with green olives and tomatoes, a gnocchi lamb ragout. Again, deep, rich flavours that can only be obtained by hours of loving attention to sauce and reduction. Served with a McLaren Vale Shiraz this final course finished the performance. Each course, each flavour built on the previous one. Not a note out of place.



The perfect lunch, a dining experience. Thank you Chef Alistair Veen. Tap Restaurant.
www.taprestaurant.ca




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